Many Antarctic expeditions will start in Ushuaia, Argentina…

USHUAIA

The capital of (Argentine) Tierra del Fuego is located on the shores of the Beagle Channel, surrounded by the southern tip of the Andes Range. Besides being the South American jumping off point for most tours to Antarctica, the city's primary claim to fame is being the southernmost city in the world. Part ski village, part frontier outpost, this vibrant small town presents wonderful views at every turn; to the neighboring mountains and sea, glaciers and forests.

If you are up for a bit of walking, nearly all of the area's sights are within easy reach. Restaurants and shopping are centered on Avenida San Martin, where you can purchase local souvenirs, clothing, maps, books, etc.

Ushuaia is home to several nice museums. The End of the World Museum fronts the harbor, with exhibits on the regional culture, indigenous population and history, plus examples of the local bird life (although the taxidermy is not the best you will likely ever see). Much of the information is presented in English. Your entrance receipt will also get you into the nearby Government House Museum.

On the former Presidio grounds you will find the Maritime Museum, Prison Museum (Ushuaia is a former penal colony, with prisoners responsible for building much of the early city), and MAMU, or Museo de Arte Marino Ushuaia – Museum of Maritime Art.

Nearby is the Museo Yamana which focuses on the early inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego.

A waterfront promenade extends for many blocks, with a wonderful variety of birdlife seen along the shoreline even here in town. In this same area you will find kiosks for several local tour operators specializing in area tours, by boat, bus or Jeep. Of the boat tours our favorites include those that let you land on Martillo Island to see the colonies of Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins while also visiting the old Harberton Estancia for either English Tea or Lunch.

The Tierra Del Fuego National Park is located along the border with Chile, at the southern terminus of the Pan American Highway (locally known as Argentine National Route 3), and just 30 minutes from Ushuaia. The route to the park is along the shores of the Beagle Channel, past Ensenada Bay and Lapataia Bay, through the Pipo River Valley and along the slopes of Mt. Susana. In addition to taking in the spectacular views, there are a number of great nature hikes in the park. On past visits we have seen the Magellanic Woodpecker, Austral Parakeet, Chimango Caracara, Magellanic Flightless Steamer Duck, Upland Goose, Kelp Goose, Ashy-headed Goose, Ibis, Great Grebe, Kelp Gull, Dolphin Gull, Grey Fox and much more.

Specialties of the area restaurants include local spider crabs, king crab, Argentinean beef, grilled lamb, pastas and empanadas. There is even a chocolatier on Calle San Martin. And ice cream!

There are numerous hotel options in Ushuaia. Our preference is a central hotel, like the Hotel Albatros, located on the waterfront opposite the Tourist Wharf. There are several very grand hotels in the hills surrounding the city, with expansive views of the Beagle Channel.

BUENOS AIRES

This vibrant capital city of 15 million is situated on the banks of the Rio de la Plata. Though modern and dynamic, the city also nurtures many of its old residential neighborhoods and traditions. You may want to take some time to discover the many parks, grand plazas and vibrant neighborhoods of this cosmopolitan city. It is possible to stroll some of the grand boulevards in the morning, take a break at one of the many sidewalk cafés mid-day, museum hop in the afternoon, and take in a show in the evening.

Civic Center is the area where you will find the Plaza de Mayo with its famous Casa Rosada (government house) and Metropolitan Cathedral. A few blocks away, at the far end of Avenida de Mayo, you will find Plaza Congreso and the National Congress building.

La Boca is a colorful riverfront neighborhood where the “architecture” is mostly comprised of old tin boarding houses now painted in a patchwork of bright colors. No longer much of a working port, the irregular streets are now home to numerous artists, street performers, and art galleries.

San Telmo is famous as the birthplace of Tango, and also for its lively open-air antique/ flea market. On Sunday mornings and afternoons the main plaza and surrounding streets literally overflow with activity; Porteños (as the residents of Buenos Aires refer to themselves) out socializing, acordeón & guitar music, dancing, mimes, and a stunning array of Argentinean antiques and odds & ends. Grab a seat in one of the cafés surrounding the plaza and enjoy the goings on!

Recoleta is home to the National Museum of Fine Art, Iglesia de Pilar, and Cemeterio de la Recoleta. The latter is one of Buenos Aires’ top attractions, with narrow lanes lined with elaborate mausoleums and sculptures, numbering in the thousands – the final resting place of Argentina’s elite/illustrious/historic figures (including Eva Peron - Evita). The neighborhood also houses one of the highest concentrations of sidewalk cafes, gourmet restaurants and upscale shopping. A weekend crafts fair occurs in Plaza Francia. In the Plaza de Naciones Unidas (United Nations Plaza) you will find the 20 meter tall Floralis Genérica - a moving floral sculpture of aluminum and steel (the 6 giant pedals only at 8am daily and close at midnight).

On the tree lined streets of Palermo you will find an oasis within the city. Here the stateliest old homes of this historic city stand. You will also find the botanical gardens, classic rose garden (with over 18,000 roses), Japanese garden, planetarium (built to resemble a UFO) and zoo here. In 2001 the MALBA (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires) opened its doors here.

The Costanera Sur Ecológic Reserve is a nearly 900-acre reserve on the Rio Plata riverbanks in the Puerto Maderno district of the city. Few cities can lay claim to a reserve of this size where nearly 300 species might be found. Slightly further afield there are three additional urban reserves: Ribera Norte, Vicente Lopez, and Costanera Norte Ecologic Reserves, each with their own unique habitats.

During the summer months (December – February) Buenos Aires truly comes alive at night, with everyone out enjoying the cooler evening air. It is not at all uncommon to see three or more generations of a family out strolling at 10pm – they’re probably still on their way to dinner!

One of the city’s main thoroughfares is Avenida 9 de Julio, often credited as being the widest street in the world, with an incredible 16 lanes at some points. Where it intersects with Avenida Corrientes you will find the 220 foot tall Obelisk, built in 1936 to celebrate the 4th centenary of the founding of Buenos Aires.

Food is central to the evening activities for most Porteños. Yes, you can find McDonalds, or the Hard Rock Café, but you’ll have to search for them amongst a vast selection of other options. Steak houses are a popular choice (remember, Argentina is known for its meats – especially beef and lamb). Pizzerías are also found on nearly every block (not a surprise in light of the fact that most early European settlers were from either Spain or Italy). Empanadas (turnovers, typically stuffed with ground beef, onions & peppers) are another national favorite (vegetarian fillings are also frequently available). If you like coffee you will not have far to look, with coffee bars on many street corners. For ice cream lovers be sure to check out one of the many heladorias – they’re known for their huge variety of creamy, sinful, flavors (many of which we can personally attest to). And, on the subject of desserts, Dulce de Leche should not be missed, especially here where it was first created.

Nightlife is varied, and often extends into the wee hours (the city in fact appears to never sleep). Tango houses abound and often feature a multi-course dinner and wine with the show. One of our favorite dinner shows is El Querandi for the more intimate setting.

The Teatro Colón, opened in 1908, is known as one of the world’s finest opera houses. Avenida Corrientes is the Latin American equivalent to our Broadway, featuring professional performances of the latest theatre productions, plus many old classics (we’ve seen a couple of great “Broadway” shows here over the years).

All-in-all Buenos Aires is a great place to spend a couple of days; walk the neighborhoods and parks, feast on empanadas and pizza and ice cream and dulce del leche, and take in a tango show…

IGUAZU FALLS

Located 800 miles north of Buenos Aires (a roughly 2 hour flight), on the border with Brazil, lie Iguazú Falls (Iguazú meaning "great waters" in the language of the local Guaraní indigenous peoples). The first European to see the falls was the Spanish governor of Paraguay, Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541. These magnificent falls are the world’s second largest falls, and recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Taller than Niagara Falls, 275 cascades spectacularly flow in a horseshoe shape over nearly 2 miles of the Iguazú River. The thunderous roar of the crashing water can be heard for miles in the jungle!

Under tropical skies the vibrant green jungle here contrasts with the brick-red soil. The extraordinary ecosystem is protected by Argentine and Brazilian national parks on either side of the cascades - two thirds of the falls are on the Argentine side of the river, although the views of the falls are better from the Brazilian side. This near-virgin jungle shelters over 2000 plant species, including beautiful epiphytes, ferns, palms, and brilliant orchids. Local fauna includes numerous butterflies, coatamundi, jaguar, tapir, capuchin monkeys, plus some 400 species of birds. Just a few of the many birds possible include red breasted toucan, toco toucan, trogons, crested jays, tanagers, toucanets, Rufous horneros, blackbirds, and myriad hummers.

A series of forest trails, elevated boardwalks over the water, and exhilarating boat rides will bring you into contact with the river and its inhabitants. As you explore, around each corner or bend in the river you will be amazed by the stunning vistas.

We recommend a 3-day/2-night visit from Buenos Aires to feel like you have really experienced the falls and surrounding area. Our favorite place to stay is the Das Cataratas Hotel, located next to the falls in Brazil (Beware of the “wild” coatamundis around the hotel that will try and steal your breakfast if you eat outside!). On the Argentnian side the closest hotel is the Gran Melia, with forest trails to the falls right from the property.

COLONIA & MONTEVIDEO, URAGUAY

Hop a ferry in Buenos Aires for the short ride across the Rio Plata to Colonia, Uruguay! Colonia del Sacramento is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites for the charming Portuguese colonial architecture; winding cobblestone streets, flower-filled plazas, and more. Montevideo is the bustling capital of Uruguay. Several day tours are available locally, including either Colonia or Montevideo, or both, in 12-ish hours.

travel logistics

AIRPORTS:
There are two airports in Buenos Aires. Most international flights arrive at Ministro Pistarini International Airport - also known as Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), located 15 miles from the center of Buenos Aires. There are three side-by-side terminals at the airport, connected by an outdoor walkway. The drive to a city-center hotel will likely take 45 minutes or more.

Most domestic flights, including those to Ushuaia, depart from the more centrally-located Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP). The airports are on opposite sides of Buenos Aires – an approximately 40 minute drive in perfect conditions, which are rare – it’s best to allow closer to 90 minutes if traveling at rush hour.

An easy option for getting into the city center, or between the airports, is to book a car on arrival (booths are located immediately inside security, just before exiting to the greeter area. Taxis are another easy option. As you exit customs at the international airport many people offering taxis will immediately greet you – however, it is best to continue another 50 feet into the terminal where you can book one from one of the taxi company booths (the greeters are likely not licensed to carry passengers). All official taxis in Buenos Aires have a meter in addition to displaying their license and driver ID. Taxi fares between the airports and city center hotels are fixed, rather than using the meter. Between EZE and the city is 6,000 pesos for the car, or between AEP and the city center hotels is 1,500 (less than $10).

Alternately there is a very good shuttle bus service between the airports, or to the city center. Again, just after exiting customs and passing the greeters/touts you will see a booth for the Manuel Tienda León Bus Company (you can’t miss it). Purchase your ticket at the counter and they will escort you outside to the next departing shuttle (departures roughly every 30 minutes).

The domestic airlines in Argentina are a quirky lot. Schedules change frequently, and with little notice. The check-in agents seem to almost randomly decide who they will charge an overweight fee. Some agents are stricter than others – it’s just the luck of the draw in the airports. All I can really say is “be nice, say hi, and good luck” (being friendly with the overworked agents really does seem to make a big difference). Otherwise, fees are usually less than $10 (and most of our Antarctica bags are at least a bit overweight).

Ushuaia has a single airport - Malvinas Argentinas Ushuaia International Airport  (USH), located on a peninsula in Ushuaia Bay, and just minutes from the city center. Taxis have meters and are readily available at the airport - the ride to your hotel should just be a few dollars. Taxis traditionally accept Dollars, although your change will be in Pesos. Some Polar tour operators include airport transfer to meet select flights.

CLIMATE:
Argentina stretches nearly 2,300 miles north to south, with a tremendous range of climate zones. Buenos Aires, on the Plata River, can be hot and muggy during their summer months, with temperatures only dropping slightly during the evenings. Farther north, at Iguazu, you are in the tropical rainforest. Year round temperatures here are hotter, often with high humidity as well. In the far south, Ushuia experiences mild summers and cold winters. During the summer months you might see daytime temperatures in the 40’s, 50’s, 60’s or 70’s. The local joke is that you might experience all 4 seasons in a single day (brief snow flurries are even possible mid-summer). Rain is possible year round.

DRESS:
In Buenos Aires you will find that most locals tend to dress nicely - casually, but typically avoiding shorts in the city. The climate of Ushuaia dictates your fashion selections there.

DRINKING WATER:
Argentina tends to say their tap water is safe to drink. As with any change in what your system is used to, it is always possible to suffer some stomach ailments however. It is best to play it safe and drink bottled water (widely available in flat or carbonated form – “sin gas” or “con gas”). Likewise we only brush our teeth with bottled water – there is no point in taking chances with your holiday by being sick for a day or two.

ELECTRICITY:
The Argentine system is 220 volts, with an odd mix of outlets styles possible. Most newer buildings use Type I plugs with diagonal flat pins. Newer buildings are likely to use two round (Type C) pins… You may well want a universal adapter/converter kit to accommodate whatever plugs you encounter.

FOOD & DRINK SPECIALTIES:
Beef. Argentina is all about their beef – wonderful tender beef famous the world over. Tierra del Fuego is also known for their lamb barbecue. The two most typical preparations are “asado” (barbecued on skewers over a wood fire) and “parrilla” (grilled). Pizzerías are also found on nearly every block (not a surprise in light of the fact that most early European settlers were from either Spain or Italy). Empanadas (turnovers, typically stuffed with ground beef, onions & peppers) are another national favorite (vegetarian fillings are also frequently available). If you like coffee you will not have far to look, with coffee bars on many street corners. For ice cream lovers be sure to check out one of the many heladorias – they’re known for their huge variety of creamy, sinful, flavors (many of which we can personally attest to). And, on the subject of desserts, Dulce de Leche should not be missed, especially here where it was first created.

Yerba mate (pronounced in two syllables, 'MAH-tae') is a traditional hot Argentine herbal drink, prepared in a hollowed-out gourd which is passed around in a social setting and drunk through a metal straw. Mate contains less caffeine than coffee, but contains other vitamins and minerals that give it a stimulating effect, particularly to those who are not used to it.

Argentina is renowned for its excellent wines, with those from Mendoza province being the most popular. Beer is offered in draft form in a chopp (small glass) or served in bottles or cans, and is typically a light, easily drinkable lager. The most popular locally made brand is Quilmes.

By the way, on the subject of food and restaurants, anticipate that meals will be leisurely. Dining out is viewed as an event and never rushed. If you have a timeline let the restaurant know, although they might not be able to accommodate it. Anticipate leisurely service, and relax – it is unlikely you are being singled out for slow service – it is just the pace of Argentina!

GETTING AROUND:
Taxis in town are plentiful, and they typically all have meters with the rates being quite reasonable. Most of the drivers however speak little to no English. Only use official taxis. There is some history of taxi drivers scamming tourists with fake large denomination bank notes - only pay with smaller notes.

The vast Buenos Aires Subte (subway system) opened in 1913 and covers much of the city (signage is in Spanish).

LANGUAGE:
The national language of Argentina is Spanish. Particularly in Buenos Aires the Spanish has an Italian-sounding influence Castillano that can be hard to understand at first. Most hotel, restaurant and shop workers who deal with tourists will speak at least some English.

MEDICAL MATTERS:
No inoculations are required for entry. However, as with any travel, it is recommended you speak to your health provider about your travel plans.

COVID testing and protocols are ever-changing.

MONEY:
There is no need to change currency before arriving in Argentina – the U.S. Dollar is widely accepted – their local currency is the Argentine Peso, which is divided into 100 centavos. There are both exchange booths and ATM machines in most Airports. In both Buenos Aires and Ushuaia there are numerous ATM machines. Traveler’s checks are becoming less used, and as such might be difficult to exchange outside of hotels and banks. Many businesses will also accept US Dollars, although your change will likely be in Pesos.

Counterfeit bills are on occasion seen; know that all bank notes have a watermark in Argentina. Both ARS100 and ARS50 bank notes have a metallic thread incorporated into the paper.

Tipping is common practice in restaurants and cafés throughout Argentina, with 10% being typical. Occasionally you may see this already included in the bill as the “servicio.” If instead you see “cubierto” on the bill that is a “bread and service charge” from the restaurant, that they keep – a fee for the amenities – and not something that goes to the staff. You will see some restaurants with signs in the windows advising “no se cobra cubierto” meaning they don’t charge that extra fee.

Tipping hotel porters is traditional. We personally leave a couple of dollars for the hotel maids. Taxi drivers are generally not tipped, although most people will leave the coin change. If a taxi driver is doing something extra, like carrying bags to the hotel door, then tipping more would be appropriate.

Any U.S. dollars you bring should be in good condition. Typically only your hotel or a bank will be willing to exchange bills larger than a US$20.

QUIRKS:
The 1982 Falkland Islands war remains a sore spot with Argentinians. The Argentine name for the islands is the Malvinas, and it is best to only use that name if drawn into conversation about the islands, but best of all is to avoid the subject all together.

SAFETY:
Buenos Aires is generally quite safe to walk around in, but there can be problems, as in all big cities of the world. Petty theft is unfortunately not uncommon, with pick-pockets sometimes working in teams with one person distracting the intended target. By being aware of your surroundings, and using caution, especially if walking alone at night, you should have no problems. Most city hotel rooms will have a safe where you might opt to keep your passport and any valuables. It is best to leave flashy jewelry at home (this includes gold/silver chains) – you won’t need them on this holiday.

SHOPPING:
Argentine specialties include Gaucho themed products; leather goods, gourds, yerba-mate paraphernalia, etc.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Argentina is very sensitive to the situation with the Falkland Islands, which they also claim. Try to only use the Spanish name for the islands – Islas Malvinas – when talking to locals to avoid confrontation.

STAYING CONNECTED:
Cellular voice coverage tends to be good in the cities, but data coverage is often spotty. Most hotels as well as many restaurants and cafes offer free WiFi.

The country code if calling Argentina is 54. Each city or region also has an area code: 11 for Buenos Aires, 2901 for Ushuaia, or 37 for Iguazu.

TIME ZONES:
There is a one hour time change between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia. Buenos Aires is 2 hours ahead of U.S. Standard Time, while Ushuaia is 3 hours ahead (noon in Buenos Aires = 1pm in Ushuaia).