mid-ecstatic display of the Adelie penguin, Antarctic Peninsula

Antarctica is vast desert.  5.4 million square miles, or roughly 10% of the earth’s land surface, and virtually all covered by a permanent ice sheet (at times more than 2 miles thick).  During the long Austral winters the sea ice more than doubles the size of the continent.  It is at this time that Antarctica is at its most formidable - dominating and unpredictable - greater than most life, and seemingly devoid of life.

During the Austral summer however Antarctica and the sub-Antarctic islands will be teeming with life.  When the sun finally emerges from the long winter night, the sea ice melts, and life returns - to breed!  With a background of glittering white mountains and blue-green icebergs, come face to face with incredibly large colonies of penguins.   Approach colonies of albatrosses, petrels, and shags (cormorants).  Walk and cruise among many species of pinnipeds, including large colonies of massive Southern elephant seals and roaring Antarctic fur seals.  At sea be rewarded with great views of pelagic sea birds gliding nearby as well as several species of whales.

The Southern Ocean ecosystem is the world’s largest, and most fertile.  It spans from Antarctica north to the Antarctic Convergence; the boundary where northward-moving cold Antarctic waters meet the warmer Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans.  Here the Antarctic circumpolar current carries more water than any other system in the world – the richness of this system, and the wildlife supported, is beyond belief.

The history of Antarctic exploration is legendary, with names such as Cook, Scott, Amundson, and Shackleton.  Each had incredible, heroic, adventures.  Go where they have gone and learn what they accomplished, and endured.  Particularly around the Ross Sea it is possible to still visit several of their historic huts/camps.  On Elephant Island one might see where Shackleton’s men camped, and on South Georgia you can often walk the last section of his epic hike across the island.

If you have already experienced the Galápagos Islands you will be surprised at both the similarities, and differences.  The wildlife is generally as approachable as you experienced in the Galápagos, although with colonies typically far larger.  Another difference is the relative freedom afforded in Antarctica; rather than staying with your guide you are more likely to be able to explore an area more at your own pace, within sight of the expedition team, lingering where you wish.  The photographic opportunities are unmatched.  

Galápagos Travel first started traveling south in 1998, taking our first group there in early 2000.  We’ve traveled to, and shared, the Antarctic Peninsula, Weddell Sea, and the Ross Sea.  In the sub-Antarctic we’ve been to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island, South Shetland Islands (including Elephant Island), South Orkney Islands, as well as the sub-Antarctic islands of New Zealand; Snares, Campbell and Auckland Islands.  Each region or island is wonderfully unique, and all worth a serious visit!

We know the Tour Operators, the ships, the islands and visitor sites, the wildlife, and the gateway cities.  In short Galapagos Travel knows the region!   We are also small enough that we will know you, and help get you prepared for the incredible adventures ahead. In short we would love to help you plan your perfect trip to "Antarctica."

gentoo penguins, Antarctic Peninsula

considerations

In our opinion the best all-around "Antarctica Voyage" is one that includes the Antarctic Peninsula, plus South Georgia Island, and the Falkland Islands.  These sub-Antarctic islands are where the bulk of the wildlife is found and critical to really seeing the diversity of the region. The Peninsula is amazing for jaw-dropping scenery and bragging rights, but overall lighter on wildlife.

Second most important to us when selecting a voyage is that it be long enough that you are really able to see and experience the areas fully, ideally with 2 - 5 days in each area: Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falklands.

Certainly you also want to have lots of time ashore to observe and photograph the amazing things you are here to see.  That means selecting a vessel that is roughly 100 participants when possible (larger vessels must stagger groups ashore meaning everyone has less time on land, and more time onboard the ship).

Of course it would be nice if the ship was also well suited to expedition travel, riding the waters well and with good observation areas inside and out.  For most of us that rules out the smallest ships.

Our preference is for mid-season voyages, although “spring” and “autumn” have their merits too. More on the seasonality follows.

Selecting a Tour Operator that specializes in the region is also important, for both the experience they bring to their programs, as well as expert expedition teams.

black-browed albatross, Falkland Islands

seasonality

The season is short in the far south, varying by location, with itineraries based on anticipated ice conditions. Following is a brief explanation of what you might expect around the Peninsula, Falkland Islands, and South Georgia. The earliest expedition vessels begin visiting the Antarctic Peninsula and the sub-Antarctic islands in October or early November (springtime in the southern hemisphere), and wrap up the season typically in March. Some ships might offer a Falklands Island and South Georgia voyage earlier as those areas are accessible earlier in the season. While the wildlife and natural wonders abound throughout the season, there are variations caused by the weather and currents. 

Early Season: In October and November the temperatures start to climb and the pack ice that forms each winter begins to break up making access possible. The landscape is pristine, blanketed with snow, with patches of rock and earth beginning to peek out. Occasional snowfall is still common. Meanwhile the wildlife colonies are bustling; penguins and seabirds are returning to their nesting sites. King Penguin chicks who have overwintered are still in crèches or groups, while parents who do not have a chick are often balancing an egg on their feet as they hobble about the colonies. Courtship, mating and egg laying are all the order of the day as everyone rushes to breed during the short season. On South Georgia peak Southern Elephant Seal breeding is in October, with males fighting for dominance and breeding rights, while the females are ashore to pup. November and December see the Fur Seals on South Georgia ashore in the greatest numbers, occasionally limiting landing options due to their numbers. Only in October is it possible to land on Prion Island where the Wandering Albatross nests. Weather is less settled early in the season and depending on conditions drifting ice might keep the ship or zodiacs from reaching some sites in the South Shetlands and Antarctica. 

Mid/high Season: December and January are the height of the Austral summer, and even in the sub- Antarctic islands the sun is likely to be up 18 or more hours a day. The temperatures have generally been above freezing for a couple of months so the snow and ice have largely receded, making landings easier (you’ll still see plenty of snow though!). The bird colonies are their most active with chicks hatching, and slightly older chicks chasing after their parents for food. Whale sightings along the Antarctic Peninsula increase this time of year. Elephant Seal colonies are mellower, while the juvenile Fur Seals on South Georgia are busy mock-fighting with anything that moves. Expeditions are very likely sold out this time of year, and prices might also be higher..

Late Season: Penguin colonies remain very active into the late season - February & March - with chicks beginning to molt into their adult plumage. Fewer adults are seen on shore as it takes both parents to get enough food for the growing chick. Soon they will leave the chicks behind to discover the world on their own. Leopard Seals and predatory Skuas are very active this time of year. By mid-March many penguin colonies are empty, or nearly so (the Adelies being the first to leave, followed by the Chinstraps and Gentoos). King Penguins are an exception, with their large chicks taking 18 months to raise. Late season is the peak time for whales, particularly along the peninsula. Aside from the glaciers, icebergs, and ice shelves the setting is more brown by late season (brown = mud and penguin poop). The first stages of sea ice are beginning to form and winter storms are on the horizon.

The upshot is there is always wonderful behavior to be seen anytime throughout the season!

Gentoo penguins fending off a pair of skuas

regions

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Antarctica, the Falkland Islands & South Georgia

Without a doubt the easiest part of Antarctic to reach is the Peninsula.  From the southern reaches of South America the Peninsula is just 600 miles, or 2 days by ship (or a few hours by plane, which is an option on some sailings).  While most of Antarctica is frozen throughout the year, an exception is the long panhandle of the Antarctic Peninsula, and surrounding South Shetland Islands, which stretches far enough north to be largely ice-free in the summer.  

As wonderful as the Antarctica Peninsula and South Shetlands are, and they are truly wonderful, the best part of a voyage to this region is the Falklands Islands archipelago and South Georgia Island.

The Falkland Islands archipelago is home to amazingly varied populations of sea birds, including the world’s largest colony of the magnificent Black-browed Albatross.  These wild islands are also home to four species of penguins, petrels, shags and more.  Myriad land birds also thrive on these remote islands, including caracara, geese, ducks, finches, pipits…

If the Antarctic Peninsula (and adjacent islands) is the heart of a voyage south, South Georgia is certainly the soul.  Not included on most Antarctica itineraries, South Georgia is always the highlight for anyone taking the time to visit.  Here you will find one of the world’s highest concentrations of sea birds, with colonies in the hundreds of thousands.  King, Macaroni, Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins all nest on South Georgia.  There are also 4 species of albatross here, including the Wandering Albatross, with its 13 foot wingspan!  

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New Zealand & Australian sub-Antarctic Islands

The sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia are tiny havens for some of the most abundant and unique wildlife on the planet. They lie in the cool temperate or sub-Antarctic Zone to the south and east of New Zealand in the great southern ocean that encircles Antarctica.  They are comprised of six island groups: the Bounty Islands, the Antipodes, the Snares, the Auckland Islands, Campbell Island and Macquarie Island. 

Long recognized for their rich biodiversity, these islands are afforded the highest levels of conservation status and protection by the New Zealand and Australian governments, as well as being recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage sites.  Nicknamed by some the “Galápagos of the Southern Ocean,” these islands are a wildlife refuge like no other; they are home to a vast array of wildlife including albatross (7 species), penguins (7 species), petrels, prions, shearwaters and marine mammals.  The flora is equally fascinating; the majority of it being endemic to these islands. 

Because the islands are close to New Zealand the “at sea” days are minimal, the overall voyages a bit shorter, and the prices a bit lower.

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Weddell Sea & Emperor Penguins

Few Antarctica images fire the imagination the way Emperor Penguins might, whether huddled together against the weather, or the curious fluffy grey chicks wobbling about.  

More than just Emperors, the Weddell Sea is home to a wonderful range of wildlife: Gentoo, Adélie and Chinstrap Penguins, Cape, Snow & Giant Petrels, Kelp Gulls, Skuas, Wilson's Storm Petrels, and much more.    

The scenery is stunning with landscapes of layered sandstones, lava flows, glaciers tumbling into the sea and ice-bergs and pack-ice as far as the eye can see. This is a region of immense tabular icebergs and vast panoramas.  

Early-season expeditions to the Weddell Sea are in for a true "winter wonderland" of snow and ice.  It takes a special vessel for these voyages, including carrying helicopters to get travelers within walking distance of the Emperor penguin colony. There is no more spectacular way to experience this vast scenery than scenic overflights as well.

Currently there are just two such vessels so Emperor penguin focused departures are fairly rare.

King penguins (adults and chicks), South Georgia Island


vessels

Today there are many vessels traveling to Antarctica. Most vessels and operators participate in the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO). Founded in 1991 this governing body was formed to advocate, promote and practice safe and environmentally responsible travel to Antarctica. Examples of this stewardship include all vessels/operators posting their planned schedules and landings in advance of the season to avoid two vessels ever sharing a landing site. The bylaws also restrict the number of participants that may be ashore at any time. Any vessels carrying more than 500 passengers are not allowed to land any passengers while in Antarctic waters - these are “cruise only” programs. For a partial list of vessels regularly traveling to Antarctica click the button below.

Giant Petrel, South Georgia Island